Product Installation Instructions
- Window and Door Corner Pan Flashing
- Straight Pan Flashing
- Reversible Roof Kick-Out Flashing
- Window and Door Head Flashing
- Window and Door Head Flashing — For use above radius units
WOF80 and WOF90
6 9/16 inch deep pan installation
WOF30 and WOF40
4 9/16 inch deep pan installation
WOF 30 and WOF40
4 9/16 inch pan installed in twin window opening
WOF 30 and WOF40
Simple Pan installation in just over 2 minutes
Cut house-wrap in a “T and V” fashion ( the top part of the opening is cut like a “T” and the bottom half of the opening is cut like an upside down “V” )
Fold the house wrap into the opening and trim it off even with the inside face of the wall opening
It helps if the RO is 1/4 Inch wider. Hold pan corner firmly in RO. Mark point with knife above nail slot. Remove pan and cut house wrap into the opening. It helps if the RO is 1/4 inch wider if only a 1/2 inch RO is given. Hold Pan corner firmly in RO. Mark point with knife above nail slot. Remove pan and cut house wrap into the opening.
Lift the house wrap. Place the Pan underneath. Fold wrap back down. Water will now flow over and into the pan without taping. Repeat for the other sideLift the house wrap. Place the pan underneath. Fold wrap back down. Water will now flow over and into the pan without taping. Repeat for the other side.
Cut the straights to fit. Score several times and snapCut the straights to fit. Cut away from yourself. Score several times and snap it easily apart.
Apply butyl flashing tape over joints. Holding the tape up at the back, start at the front edge and work the tape toward the back dam.
Make and use a taping tool from a piece of scrap pan material. Hold tape off of the back dam, work the tape into the inside corner.Make and use a taping tool from a piece of scrap pan material. Hold tape off of the back dam, work the tape into the inside corner. *Use tool for this, not your fingers*
Once tape is securely into corner, tape over the back dam aOnce tape is securely into corner, tape over the back dam and then finish up with your fingers.
If you keep the tape off of the house wrap the pan can rise with the window / door during shimming. Remember to nail the pan loosely to allow it to move up during shimIf you keep the tape off of the house wrap the pan can rise with the window / door during shimming. Remember to nail the pan loosely to allow it to move up during shimming, or nail pan when securing window or door to structure.
For larger openings just add more straight sections.
- Cut the house wrap so that when the roof step flashing goes on it is installed behind the wrap so water sheds in shingle fashion.
- Istall the kick-out flashing under your last piece of step flashing at the bottom edge of the roof.
Note — There are three surfaces to our flashing. Two are almost square and one is angled with a notch in it. One of the square surfaces will go against the wall ( depending on if it is used on a right or left wall ). The angled surface always goes against the roof.
- The sole purpose of the kickout is to channel the water that flows along the step flashing out from behind the siding material so it doesn’t enter your wall at the roof edge. Once it exits the siding it has done its job and can be trimmed off with a utility knife if desired.
- As in other flashing applications the head flashing should be installed behind / underneath the house wrap so water sheds off in shingle fashion. Usually to accomplish this you will need to cut the house wrap that is above the radius into segments using approximately 6 inch cuts extending outward from the curve. The house wrap segments can them be lifted so the flashing can go behind.
- The Flexible Head Flashing comes in 6 ft. lengths. It has tapered drain channels throught the entire length. At each end it has built in kickouts. These kickouts are there needed for radius work where the radius curves down to a vertical side and the angle is too steep to rely on the drain channels to direct the water out. In these cases the kickouts will get the water out of the wall as it runs around this steep curve. Without it water may want to enter the wall at the end of the flashing. Each piece of head flashing is long enough for a 4 ft. half round. For larger units you will need more than one piece but the installation is the same.
- Starting at the side of the unit place the flashing kickout just lower than the point where the radius goes vertical. Wrap the flashing around the radius until you reach the top and mark the flashing there. You will cut the flashing at that point using a utility knife or a saw. Try for a fairly square cut. Repeat this on the other side of the radius.
- Now you have two sides that you will want to join together. Since the flashing has drain groves over its length you are only concerned about the water that may land on the joint. To secure this spot you will simply place tape under the seam, up the back, and over the inside of the vertical leg. This will seal the seam and you will not have tape exposed on the outside edge. We recommend a foil backed tape.
- Place the head flashing over the unit securing it close against the unit. You can use staples, nails, or screws.
- Now let the house wrap down back over the flange of the flashing and place tape over the cuts.
- Repeat this process for all of your units.
- In order to install the flashing behind the house wrap you need to cut the wrap at the top corners of the unit in an upward and angled fashion away from the window. The cuts may be approx. 6 inches long. Lift the wrap up and secure it out of the way while you install the flashing.
- Since the head flashing has tapered drain channels along its length there is no need for the end dams if the application is level. The channels don’t allow water to migrate right or left. In this case, if desired, the end dams may be simply cut off with a utility knife or saw.
Note — that if your unit is straight and angled down you will need a kick-out at the bottom edge the same as with the radius application.
- Secure the flashing over the entire length of the unit using nails, staples, or screws.
- If the unit is wider than 6 ft. you can simply join multiple units together by cutting the ends square and placing tape on the bottom, up the back and over the front of the flange to seal the joint. We recommend a foil backed tape.
- Now place the house wrap down over the head flashing and seal the cuts with tape.
- Repeat this process for all of your units.